Cheap Wall Rack

After putting together the ESD protection bar for my PoE devices, I decided that I wanted to reduce the number of ethernet runs I had strung across the garage, so I took some scrap bits of lumber, and made a small, wall mount rack, to put a switch, and my PoE PDU into.

I also took the opportunity to change the uplink to the switch to fiber, to further electrically isolate my outdoor PoE devices from my main server cabinet and network gear.

As an additional bonus, now I can remotely power cycle any of the PoE devices via the PDU in case of an issue.

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2017 Balloons Launch

This year we had a bit larger class, so two strings were flown this year, in addition to some other groups flying experimental packages.

The first flight reached approximately 105,000ft in altitude, and carried carried a number of student payloads, the 900MHz voice telemetry system, a commercial APRS tracker board, my custom IRIS board. Additionally, a Raspberry Pi A+ and Pi Camera V2 were included in my IRIS package, and captured a number of still photos at 8MP resolution.

The second flight was just shy of 100,000ft altitude, and carried student payloads, the 900MHz voice telemetry system, and a commercial APRS tracker board.

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Basic ESD Protection

A recent thunderstorm that came through the area reminded me that I needed to work on some improvements to my surge suppression systems. I have a number of outdoor ethernet devices like security cameras with rather long runs of cable outside, and I’d hate to have a surge come through and damage my main switch.

There are a number of options in terms of ethernet surge supression, and I found a name brand at a cheap price in the Ubiquiti devices. Amazon had them to me a couple days later, and I mounted them onto a 1″ square aluminum tube. The tube is then grounded to a rod outside. The whole thing is mounted in my garage right where the ethernet runs enter the house.

It’s a simple setup that didn’t take long to put together, and adds a little peace of mind for the next time a thunderstorm rolls through.

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Binary Addition Machine

A few years ago, the idea came to me to build a binary addition machine as a display piece. The logic would be constructed of SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relays, which reduces the number of relays and simplifies the design a bit. The schematic represents a single Full Adder, eight of which will compose the full addition machine.

Note that A and B are the inputs from the two numbers, S is the output, CarryIN in the input from the previous bit, and CarryOUT is the output to the next bit.

My original efforts on this project were based on home etched PCBs, using the photo etching process I’ve posted about in the past on this blog. Here’s an example of one of the single sided boards I designed to compose a single Full Adder.

You’ll notice that some areas of the ground plane on the PCB seem to get a little spotty. It’s important to make sure you get the settings on your printer as dark as possible to avoid this. After tuning for my printer, I came up with the darkest print I could manage. The old transparency is on the top, and the new is on the bottom.

As you can see, it is a good bit darker on the new print, which leads to better etchings.

However, the whole process of exposing, etching, and cleanup is rather fiddly and time consuming, so I never managed to get around to making all eight Full Adders required to complete the machine.

Several years went by with the project languishing in my random electronics box, and was recently brought back to light. I decided that I was going to design a new board and have it professionally made to save the time, and have a better looking end result, and work on making the mount and the various other bits as pretty as possible since the goal was a display piece.

I ordered the PCBs and the parts to populate them, and in the meantime started work on laying out the mounting on a piece of Oak I picked up from the hardware store.

Once the mounting was all sorted out, there was lots of sanding and lacquering.

I decided I wanted to etch the labels into the brass plate that would hold the 16 bit switches (two eight bit numbers that get added together).

The etching turned out really well!

The display plate also got put together with nine LEDs (the 8 bit number and a 9th for the carry).

Instead of buying brass standoffs that would go with the switch and display plates, I bought a section of brass tubing, cut it down into equal lengths, trimmed the ends on my lathe, and brushed them with a wire wheel on my grinder.

Finally, it was time to assemble the boards.

And then get them mounted on the base.

In the end, I’m extremely pleased with how this project came out, it’s a beautiful result, and is really fun to show people how the math works here. It’s also really neat to see the propagation delay in a multi-bit carry due to the relay switching times.

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Surface Mount Stencils

I’ve been working on a project recently that calls for a pretty sizable board, with a fair number of parts on it (4″ x 10″ board size).

Traditionally when I’ve assembled these boards, I’ve either used wire solder and soldered parts on by hand, or more recently, been using a syringe with solder paste, placing all the parts on, and then placing the board in a toaster oven to reflow all the parts at once.

For a board this large though, either prospect was going to be pretty tedious, on top of placing the components to begin with, so I decided that I was going to try using a solder paste stencil this time.

A stencil is simply a sheet, usually of stainless steel or mylar plastic, with precisely cut holes in it where you want the solder paste to go. You squeegee the paste over the top, and it deposits just the right amount, right where you need it.

I got this stencil from OSH Stencils, and it was pretty inexpensive considering again that this is a large board.

The critical thing about it is getting it lined up properly with the board itself. Laying down just the right amount of paste in the wrong spot doesn’t help any, so the pcb, some framing supports, and the stencil were all taped down to prevent any movement.

After placing all the parts and reflowing, I had a perfectly soldered board.

The through hole parts still have to be soldered on manually though. No wave soldering for me yet…

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