VNWA DUT Holder

I’ve recently been working on some inductors for a WSPR beacon transmitter. I’ll write about the transmitter in another post, but for now the issues I’m running into is tuning the components for the filter and amplifier.

Luckily, I have a very nice little piece of gear called the VNWA that can do an excellent job of measuring components. Now, the only remaining problem is figuring out how to connect the component to the VNWA.

Originally, I was using a SMA jack connector, but it ended up being a hassle, and I wasn’t pleased with the ease of calibrating it. So, I decided to put together my own with a little bit of copper plated circuit board.

I used my Dremel to cut some traces, and a drill to put the holes in for the SMA jacks.

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Then installing the SMAs makes the holder complete.

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I also spaced the connectors to match my VNWA, so it’s a very easy connection.

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Now all I have to do is solder across the break in the trace to get a good easy connection to my VNWA.

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Reloading

My parents were kind enough to get me a new handgun for christmas this year, and I decided that getting into reloading would be a good way to save money and allow me to shoot more. This post is going to show some photos of what I’ve got going, and a Sky-High overview of the process. Do NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use this blog as a tutorial in reloading. You can at best damage your firearm and at worst damage yourself or others if you reload improperly. Do a lot of research and reading and get a good manual before attempting any reloading.

With that out of the way, I had been thinking about starting reloading for a while, so I’ve been saving the brass from factory rounds I’ve been shooting. That way I’ve got some brass to use off the bat without having to buy brass to start.

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Here you can see two cartridges, one with the primer still in, and one with the primer removed. Generally when using your press, there will be a depriming pin in the sizing die, however, I’m inclined to clean my brass before using any of my dies on it, so I’ve removed the primers manually.

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Here’s a set of 50 cartridges that I’ve removed the primers from. Notice that there’s some junk in the primer pockets, and maybe you can see the shells aren’t as shiny as they could be. It’s time for a cleaning!

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Here’s some stainless steel tumbling media I bought off Amazon. It’s designed for cleaning/polishing jewelry, and works great for cleaning/shining the brass shells.

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I’ve got a small rock tumbler I use to polish my shells. I put the tumbling media in, up to about 200 shells, some water and some dish soap. Then let the tumbler run for two or three hours.

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The shells come out of the tumbler shiny and clean!

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Here’s the reloading manual I got. I picked it up off Amazon and it was fairly inexpensive. It has sections on how to reload safely, things to watch out for, data on exactly how much and what types of ingredients you should use while reloading, and much more.

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Here’s the smokeless powder I’m using. This is a one pound container and contains enough powder to do perhaps up to 1200 cartridges.

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Here’s the primers I’m using. Primers tend to be less distinct than the type of powder you use, so make sure you’ve got the right size and type of primer, and the brand shouldn’t matter too much. Though you may find some differences between brands.

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Obviously you’ll need bullets for your completed ammunition, so here’s some 115 Grain (weight) FMJ (Full Metal Jacket) 9mm (caliber) bullets I picked up. There are a billion different shapes/weights/types of bullets out there, and each will act a little differently. A basic FMJ will work fine for me as a simple plinking load.

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Here’s the set of dies that are used in the press to perform each of the reloading steps. The first on the left is the sizing/depriming die. It makes sure the cartridge is the right size, and would deprime it if I hadn’t done so already. Next is the neck expanding die. It flares out the top of the shell a little bit to help the bullet get started. Next is the bullet seating die, it presses the bullet into the shell to a specified height. Last is the crimping die. It kind of does the opposite of the neck expanding die. It presses the neck of the shell in against the bullet to hold it in place.

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Here’s the press I’m using. It’s a basic single stage press. However, it does have one advantage in that it uses die bushings, which means that I can quickly change dies without having to readjust them after screwing them in.

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And here’s some completed ammunition I put together. You can’t see the label in this photo, but I’ve labelled the ammunition I’ve made here with a ID number so I can keep track of what the specifics of this load were, so in the future I can duplicate, or work off of this ‘recipe.’

Now all I’ve got to do is go to the range and test it.

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2M Transverter

The lady of the house was kind enough to get me a kit for a 2M transverter this year for christmas. Now, for those of you who aren’t familiar with a transverter, it takes a low frequency signal (in this case 28MHz) and mixes it up to another higher frequency (in this case 144MHz). For me, this allows me to use my very nice FT-950 radio, on a frequency band it wasn’t originally designed for.

Anyway, here are some photos I took during assembly of the kit.

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This is how the kit comes, immediately showing off the big heatsink that the system uses to keep cool.

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Lifting off the heatsink reveals all the packaged components, ready to be assembled into a complete transverter.

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Here’s the front and rear panels. The rear one is shown above the front one.

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Here’s the inside of the transverter after fully assembling the circuit board, and attaching all the connections to the front and back panels.

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This is the completed transverter sitting in a cubby I’ve got below my FT-950.

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Iris Transmitter V1.1 Part 2

Here’s a photo of the boards I showed a short while ago in an assembled state. The transmitter seems to be working great, and I haven’t found any errors on this board revision.

The wires you see at the top of the photo are the power and signal wires from a GPS module, and the wires you see at the right are from a lithium battery being used to power the board.

Speaking of powering the board from a lithium battery, this board revision includes a boost regulator which takes the voltage from a lithium battery and boosts it to 5V for the system to use. I ran a test using a single battery and let the system run. It managed almost 19 hours! There’s a lot I could do to try and extend that number, but it’s a great number for having done relatively little to improve efficiency.

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Christmas Season

Welcome to the Christmas Season! It’s that special time of year when you decorate a Christmas tree and drink Swedish Festive Drink! Woo!

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